Image from page 189 of Colour in woven design (1890

What is Twill weave?


Twill Weave: Twill weave is the second major design after plain weave. A weave that repeats on three or more picks and produces diagonal lines on the face of the fabric is called Twill Weave. Twill weave also can be defined as “The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp and weft floats to be formed on the cloth”. Twill weave has some derivatives by which various types of decorative woven fabric are produced.

Properties of Twill Weave: Twill weave has some features. Properties of twill weave are given below.

  • Diagonal ribs or cords are seen on the twill fabric.
  • These twill lines are produced by letting all warp ends interlace in the same way but displacing the interlacing points of each end and by one pick relatives to that of the previous end.
  • In the both sides of the fabric, twill lines are formed.
  • It takes minimum 3 ends and 3 picks relative to that of the previous one. The smallest repeat is 3 X 3.
  • Straight draft is commonly used for producing twill weave.
  • Diagonal lines can be formed right to left or left to right.
  • Due to closer setting of yarn, it produces greater weight than woven fabric.
  • Depending on the direction of twill lines on the face of the cloth, twills are classified as Z twill and S twill.


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